Best Dirt Bike Upgrades

Caleb Hall - Rock River 

The first thing most dirt bike riders do when getting their brand new dirt bike home is check on possible upgrades. 

The first thing that same rider does after losing the checkered flag by two seconds is get those upgrades done. 

It's quite possible to change out nearly every aspect of your bike with aftermarket improvements but it's hardly necessary. However, there are a handful of upgrades that may be worth your while in order to improve power and handling, and thus your overall edge on the track. Whether you're looking for extra power, old parts finally wore out and you're looking for a replacement upgrade, or you simply want to run something better than what you've got now, better aftermarket selections can definitely improve your performance on the track. 

You can certainly spend hundreds, if not thousands on upgrades you don't need. So, what's the best way to upgrade your dirt bike? The following is our list of what you should focus on to improve your performance on the track and overall ride-ability of your dirt bike. First things first…

Upgrade Your Dirt Bike Skills

The first upgrade, before you dump a bunch of cash into your already expensive dirt bike, is to upgrade You. Sometimes it's hard to be honest with yourself. Just how good are your dirt bike skills? If Ryan Villopoto gave you his 2014 Supercross winning Kawasaki it wouldn't do you a bit of good if you're not a great rider too. If you need dirt bike lessons - get some. If you're not sure - ask for honest feedback. This is the best and most practical upgrade. 

So before hitting the store and spending a bunch of money on upgrades make sure the problem isn't you. But, win or lose, once you're competing every week then it makes perfect sense to see where to fine tune your ride and shave seconds off your lap times. 

Suspension

We'll start right off with probably the biggest and most common upgrade which is to your dirt bike's suspension. It's one of the most expensive dirt bike upgrades to invest in and hardest to install. Most riders hire a mechanic to make the change. However, a new suspension is the one upgrade you'll notice a difference right away. Glide along whoops and save your arms on those triples. 

Pipe

Upgrading your pipe is a bit more involved. First, do you ride a 2-stroke or 4-stroke? If you ride a 2-stroke the type of pipe upgrade depends on your style of riding. Riding Supercross dictates a different pipe than Motocross and trail riding, and vice versa. You can also focus on low- and mid-range power or top end power. Check out our 2-stroke exhaust guide for more information. 

As for a 4-stroke, much of the same applies but you can also exchange the slip-on or the entire system. Upgrading your exhaust system is the best way to reduce weight. If you're seconds from the Top 5 every race and struggle every time out to pass the podium riders then shedding some weight by upgrading your exhaust is a great idea. Check out our 4-stroke exhaust guide for more information. 

Jetting

Jetting your carb is not a walk in the park. It's a pain to do but can make a world of difference. You'll usually know right away if you're running rich or lean and when all the adjustments in the world can't fix the problem, you'll want to get a jet kit. Generally, one jet kit isn't necessarily better than another, in fact many stick with OEM. However, the right jet kit can make it easier to adjust the amount of fuel/air mixture. Check out our Simple Guide to Jetting Your Carb for more information. 

If you're lucky enough to ride one of those fuel-injected 4-strokes skip this part. All you need is a power tuner that you plug-in and easily adjust the fuel and ignition maps to address riding conditions and personal preference. 

Reeds

If you're riding a 4-stroke. Move on. Reeds apply to 2-strokes only. Upgrading reeds offers better airflow into the cylinder and more throttle response. After market reeds are made from carbon fiber which open and close the reed quicker eliminating "flutter" when the engine revs at high RPMs. Most riders upgrade to a complete Reed Valve system designed to provide more horsepower and better throttle response. 

Gearing

Upgrading your chain and sprocket is probably a close second to suspension as far as noticing a boost in performance. Remember, any upgrades to your dirt bike's gearing should address what you're trying to accomplish. Faster acceleration uses a smaller front sprocket or larger rear sprocket, and faster top speed uses a larger front sprocket or smaller rear sprocket. Check out our Ultimate Dirt Bike Gearing Guide for more information. 

Steering Damper

Steering dampers stabilize your handlebars and are often cited in reducing arm pump. Some dampers allow you to adjust your steering while you ride. Helpful, especially in off-roading where you encounter various styles of terrain, steering dampers absorb the constant pounding from rough terrain riding rather than your hands and arms.  Fastway Steering Stabilizers are the best in the business. 

The Simple Stuff - air filter, brake pads, levers, etc. 

The easy upgrades won't necessarily make your bike perform better or ride faster but like any higher end product, can certainly help extend the life of your dirt bike and enable you to ride more comfortably which should equal to better results on the track. 

Upgrading grips, foot pegs, levers, even your seat, can be the right adjustments needed to feel one with the bike - an especially important aspect to dirt bike riding. Other upgrades like air and oil filters and higher end fluids can extend the life of your engine and other working parts. In some cases, like riding in hot desert dunes, it's critical you use specific air filters and coolant for the extreme conditions. 

Let us know what upgrades you swear by that helped up your game and provided personal best lap times.

How To Fix Leaky Fork Seals

Fix Your Fork Seals with Seal Mate! http://www.sealmate.net 
Sealmate is the one and only tool that will instantly repair leaking fork seals! R&J Engineering has invented this tool that will fix the leaky fork seals without the cost of removing and replacing them. 

Fork Seals Made Easy!

Fork Seals Made Easy

Leaky fork seals are, for lack of a better description, a royal pain in the neck. The most common ailment to plague front suspension, a leaky fork seal can ruin your day by affecting your bike’s handling, covering your front brake pads in oil and generally just making a total mess of things. Most of the time a leaky fork seal is the result of dirt inside of the seal, but it can also be caused by a nick or ding in the fork tube from an impact with a rock or stick. But no matter what the cause, a weeping fork seal needs to be fixed, and oftentimes that means tearing into the suspension and changing the seal out. Fortunately, this isn’t as difficult as you may think.

Dirt Rider tech guru Scot Gustafson (the man behind the Dr. Dirt tech stories here on www.dirtrider.com) insists that changing afork seal is easy enough for most riders to do in their own garage. To help prove his point, we filmed Scot changing a fork seal in the Dirt Rider tech center and explaining step-by-step how he completes this job. You might want to bookmark this video for reference because someday, no matter if you ride motocross or off-road, you’re going to need to address this issue!

If you have any additional questions, please feel free to email Dr. Dirt at drmail@sorc.com, subject: Dr. Dirt. Enjoy!

What Is The Right Size Tire For Your Dirtbike?

What is the right size tire for your Dirtbike

Yesterday at the race track we had a discussion about what is the right size tire for a 250f diretbike and the local guy selling tires at the track not a tire distributor, was saying it was a 100/90-18 and that is the best tire for the bike. I totally disagree I recommended a 110/90-18 on a 250F. He was arguing with me about it but I have been around a lot of the top racers not just a local track guy in New York and I again will disagree. I know a lot of good riders using a 120/90-18 on a 250F and there are a lot of variables for tire size with weight, power etc you get the point. But I need to know all you riders out there please tell me what size tire you are running on your 250F four stroke. I was also told that we are the only ones running a 120/90-18 on our 450F because no one else would run that tire. Please no matter what motocross or supercross bike you have let me know what size tire you are running.

Clutch Inspection

You replace your rear tire because you can see the signs of wear, but the signs of clutch wear are trickier to spot. You can lay your bike over and pop off the clutch cover easily enough, but what do you look for then? Ron Hinson of Hinson Racing demystifies basic clutch inspection.

01. You should have 1/8 to 1/4 inch of freeplay at the lever. To check, pull the cable assembly away from the perch, then pull in the lever and watch the gap between the lever and perch before the cable engages the clutch. (If you use the quick-adjust when riding, reset the freeplay after the bike cools.)

02. Stock steel clutch plates are an unfinished aluminum/silver color. If your plates are blued, then these plates, the fiber plates and the springs have all been heat damaged and should all be replaced. If there’s no heat damage, check the steel plates for flatness and measure the thickness of the friction plates (check your owner’s manual for specs). Springs cannot be tested by length. Stock springs are stiff enough when new, but their rates go away easily when exposed to heat. Replace them often-every 10 hours for clutch abusers.

03. Check the clutch basket ears for notches. These will cause the clutch to drag and make engagement/disengagement sticky. Filing these smooth is a bad idea-you can create an edge that could break plates or uneven contact points between the different tangs, and you will be taking off any hard coating. (A telltale sign of a notched basket is if the bike won’t shift into neutral easily.)

04. Check the inner hub splines for grooving. Same rules apply here as to notching/grooving on the clutch basket ears.

05. Reassembly: Petroleum oil is better than synthetic oil for the clutch. In a motor that shares trans oil, the oil will become contaminated from the clutch long before it degenerates, so the long-lasting benefits of synthetics are wasted. Use high-quality pure petroleum and change it frequently. (Do not use any oil with moly.) Install the steel plates with the rounded edges toward the inside of the motor. Soak new fiber plates, ideally overnight, in the same type of oil you will use in the transmission.

No Cost Tuning Tips

We’ve all heard the argument, “I can’t justify buying a new $9000 bike because I’ll also have to buy a pipe, get my suspension revalved, get my engine done, etc”. A stock bike can be tuned to perform like a highly modified machine if you know where to start. These tuning tips will help make your bike work better and they are mostly free.

DLC coated fork legs – One of the benefits of DLC and other fork leg treatments is less friction than a standard chrome tube. A major source of friction are dry fork seals. Before you ride insert a thin feeler gauge under your oil seal and turn it a little so fork oil can lubricate the seal. Your forks will act and feel like more expensive units.

Oversized Brake Rotors – Almost all factory bikes have oversized rotors that produce incredible stopping power. The thing you don’t see is that the rotors are free of oil, grease and cleaning chemicals that hurt braking performance. Clean your rotors with brake contact cleaner before every ride to increase stopping power. Factory bikes also get their brakes bled before every race. Fresh brake fluid and a system free of air and moisture make for strong brakes.

Offset Triple Clamps – The main reason to change your clamps offset is to give a better steering feel. Some bikes have too little front end traction while others have too much. By changing the position of your rear axle you can increase the steering feel of your bike. Simply sliding the rear axle back puts more weight on the front end of the bike. Sliding it forward takes weight off the front and puts more weight bias toward the rear. To do this you will have to add or remove a chain link, or change your gearing. Adding or removing a chain link moves the axle about 14mm in the swingarm. You will need to reset your sag when you change your wheelbase.

Exhaust pipe – An aftermarket exhaust pipe is an easy way to make horsepower. If you have a fuel injected bike try changing the ignition clips or remap your ECU. By altering your fuel mixture and ignition timing you can give your bike more power. You can also make your bike more rideable when track conditions or rider ability dictate a need for less power.

Fuel Injection – A properly tuned Keihin FCR carburetor can be as responsive as a fuel injected bike. Try tuning the low speed and accelerator pump circuit in your carb. The fuel screw controls your air/fuel mixture at idle. Your leak jet controls the volume of fuel in your accelerator pump. The pump timing screw controls when your carb squirts fuel and allows the accelerator pump to refill. Keeping the accelerator pump nozzle clean will insure your carb sprays instantly.

Revalved Suspension – Nowadays, stock suspension is excellent, especially if you know how to tune it. Simply setting the sag will make a bike perform better. Increasing your fork oil height or volume will increase your forks bottoming resistance. Decreasing the oil will give the fork more linear damping for a plusher ride in the middle part of the stroke. When done properly, your compression and rebound clickers allow for endless tuning possibilities. A major component in suspension tuning is your chassis. Try re-torquing all your motor and frame bolts to the manufacturers spec. This will give your frame the optimum amount of flex for comfort and control.

Handlebars – Many bikes today have offset handlebar mounts and multi-position triple camps for better rider ergonomics. If you need a taller handlebar try installing a flat washer under the bar mount to increase the handlebar height 2mm to 5mm when you can.

Throttle Tubes and Clutch Levers – Aluminum throttle tubes and billet clutch perches have very little friction, close tolerances and work effortlessly. Lubricating and cleaning your stock controls will go a long way to bridge the performance gap between the two. Use a lubricant that doesn’t accumulate or attract dust and dirt. Most stock controls offer easy height and reach adjustments for better fit. A strip of Teflon tape under the brake and clutch clamp will help the controls move in the event of a crash.

Factory Bike Power – Adjusting the position of your fuel injector or accelerator pump nozzle to optimize where it sprays is a factory race trick that can gain a horsepower. OEM bikes come with air filter backfire screens but they aren’t on factory race bikes. And finally, Pro riders hold the throttle open longer and brake later…and that doesn’t cost anything!

How To Bleed Your Brakes

How often do you think the brake fluid on a professional race bike gets changed and bled? If you answered every race, you would be correct. How often do you change and bleed the brake fluid on your bike? If you haven’t serviced your brakes in the last year, you are overdue. Brake fluid goes bad because it attracts water, gets contaminated or overheats. Fresh brake fluid is light in color and, like gasoline, it becomes darker when it begins to go bad. Off-road bikes usually use DOT 3, 4, or 5.1 grade brake fluid. In general the higher the number the better the quality and the higher the boiling point. Brake fluid will attract water after a bottle has been opened so it is best to use a new sealed bottle whenever you replace your brake fluid.

Start by looking over the general condition of your entire brake system. Replace worn brake pads before you bleed your brakes. If you bleed your brakes with worn out pads you will add more oil to your system than normal and can cause your brakes to lock if you install new pads later. Replace your brake pad springs and retainers if they are worn or damaged. If your brake pin is worn replace it or sand off the corrosion to restore the polished finish. Rotors need to be straight and checked for uniform thickness. If your brake levers are bent or pivot bushings are worn replace them to restore the feel and action.

The easiest and most effective way to bleed your brakes is to reverse bleed your system. Since air always rises, it is more effective to push the old fluid and trapped air from your calipers at the bottom to your master cylinder at the top. Fasten a short length of hose to a syringe and fill it with fresh brake fluid. Brake fluid can damage plastic and paint so wrap the brake reservoir and bleeder with a towel. Brake fluid is also toxic so wear gloves when you work with it. Hold the syringe upside down so any trapped air will flow upwards toward the plunger and away from the hose. Open the brake bleeder and push the fresh fluid into your caliper until you see it come out in the master cylinder.

Drain off the excess fluid in the master cylinder by siphoning it out with a second syringe. Continue pushing fresh fluid into the cylinder until it displaces all the old fluid. Close the bleeder and set the fluid height in the reservoir about 3/4 full or to the top of the sight glass window. Pump the brake lever until it has it has a firm, solid feel.

If your brakes still feel spongy after bleeding you should check the key areas for problems. Air frequently gets trapped in and around the banjo bolts, so simply loosen the bolts to release air pockets and re-bleed as necessary. Make sure the banjo bolt washers are not leaking. Check for any leaks along your brake lines. Often the seals on your master cylinder piston will get worn out or damaged and need to be replaced. The same is true for the seals around the pistons in your caliper. Sometimes, simply pumping the lever a good number of times will restore the positive feel.

If you want your lever to have a really tight feel you can bleed off any remaining microscopic air molecules in the system by securing the brake lever to the handlebar with a zip tie overnight. Clean off any excess fluid you may have gotten on the caliper and master cylinder with contact cleaner.

Finally, clean your rotors with contact cleaner and a lint free cloth to complete the job.

Want more Dr. Dirt Wrenching Tips? Check out the Dr. Dirt section of Dirt Rider magazine, or stay tuned to the website for future stories and info. To suggest a topic for an upcoming installment or to ask Dr. Dirt a tech question directly, send an email to drmail@sorc.com, subject line: Dr. Dirt.

10 Tips To Make Your Suspension Work Better

How to set your sag

You can have the best suspension in the world but if you don’t maintain it or understand how it works it’s not worth much. Before your next ride follow these few simple tips to improve your suspension and get the most out of your bike.

- Tire Pressure – Begin by making sure your bike has the proper tire pressure so it will handle it’s best. A bike with too much air in the tires will be harsh and deflect off obstacles while an under inflated tire will distort under load and not give good rider feedback. Use 11-13 psi for motocross and 13-14 psi or more for off road to prevent flats. Heavy tubes and mousses will greatly affect your bikes suspension so aim for the lightest possible set up you can without risking punctures. An 18″ rear wheel also has more rider comfort than a 19″.

- Proper Spring Rate and Sag – Your springs hold up the rider and bike so make sure you have the proper rate spring in your bike. Most bikes work best with 95-115mm of sag when the rider is on the bike. Once you have the rider sag, check the static sag of the bike without the rider. Static Sag should range between 25-45mm. If the static sag is less than 25mm you need a stiffer spring and if it is greater than 45mm you need a softer spring.

- Install your front wheel correctly – Install your front wheel squarely with the forks before tightening the axle pinch bolts and axle nut. Improper installation will cause the forks to bind and wear quickly. Begin by tightening your axle nut first then torque the left side axle pinch bolts to spec. Make sure your right fork leg will slide easily along the axle before tightening. Compress the fork to set the leg and tighten the right pinch bolts when you are sure the fork leg is not binding and in it’s natural position.

- Use a torque wrench – Never over-tighten the triple clamp bolts because the fork tubes are very thin and will distort easily. Check your owners manual for the proper torque spec. Your fork bushings travel past the lower triple clamp mount and can bind if the clamp is over-tightened and cause the fork to be harsh. Be sure both fork tubes are mounted at the same height. You can also vary your bikes turning and stability by raising and lowering the forks in the triple clamps.

- Bleed the air out of the forks every time you ride – Bleed the air out of your forks at the beginning of the day before you ride. Always bleed the forks with your bike on a stand and your front wheel off the ground. Air expands with heat and altitude so it is important to start your ride with no excess pressure.

- Maintain your suspension – Change your fork and shock oil every 20 hours and replace wear parts like bushings and seals every 40 hours. Oil breaks down and gets contaminated over time causing your suspension to fade when it heats up. Worn bushing are also a cause of leaky seals and friction because of excess play. Most modern dirt bikes specify the use of 5wt fork oil. Shocks run at higher temperatures and use lighter 2.5wt oil so they don’t fade and breakdown as quickly.

- Fork Oil Height – Adjusting the fork oil height alters the amount of air space in the fork and changes the damping characteristic in the 2nd half of the suspension travel. Adding oil stiffens the fork and increases bottoming resistance while removing oil softens the fork. Add or subtract oil in small 10cc gradients until you get your desired effect . You can add fork oil through the air bleeder with a small syringe. To remove oil, you will need to remove the fork legs from the bike and turn them upside down to drain oil out of the air bleed holes.

- Grease your linkage and headset – Clean and grease your pivot bearings to maintain performance and minimize wear. A properly maintained linkage will move more freely and have less friction so your suspension will work better. A headset that is properly adjusted and greased will give accurate rider feedback.

- Chain tension and length – Adjust your drive chain on a stand with 30-40mm of play so it will not bind when the rear suspension is fully compressed. Running a longer wheel base will offer more straight line stability while a shorter wheelbase offers improved turning. Running the axle forward lessens the leverage on the shock and stiffens the initial suspension movement. If you want softer suspension in the beginning of the travel, you can move the rear axle rearward to increase leverage on the shock. Gearing you bike higher with less teeth on the back sprocket will give for better traction because of lower engine speed.

- Troubleshoot your suspension -Learn to troubleshoot your suspension for better performance. Suspension that bottoms out too easily might need more compression from your clickers, more compression valving, a higher oil level, stiffer spring rate, or just need to be serviced. A rear shock that kicks up over bumps has a different set of problems than one that kicks to the side. When you are testing suspension ride the same lines around the track in order to determine if your changes are working. A good rider can avoid all the bumps on the track and make any suspension feel good.

- Bonus – Pneumatic spring fork tips – Adjust the air pressure every day before you ride with the wheel off the ground. Use a small dial pump with a good no loss air valve. 2 psi is the equivalent of 1 spring rate. The air in the fork will heat up and expand as you ride causing an increase in pressure. Nitrogen does not offer a significant advantage over air.

How To Wash Your Bike

Washing your bike is the first step before performing any motorcycle maintenance. Doing it the right way will not only make it easier to work on your machine, but it will make your pride and joy look better and last longer. But just like any mechanical task, there is a right and a wrong way to scrub down your motorcycle. Follow these easy steps for problem-free motorcycle cleaning.

You Are Going To Need…

- Pressure washer

- Wash bucket

- Bike stand

- Soft brush

- Exhaust pipe plug/s

- Duct tape

- Rubber mallet

- Soap solution (dishwashing liquids work well;

bike washes work best)

- Spray bottle

- Compressed air

- Scotch-Brite pads

- S.O.S. pads

- WD-40 or other penetrating lube

- Dielectric grease

- Airbox cover

- Wire brush

- Clean towels

- Microfiber towels

- Contact cleaner

- Spray polish

Where To Start

Do yourself a favor and get a pressure washer; you can wash a bike with a hose and spray nozzle, but you won’t do nearly as good of a job. Remember, you’re cleaning a dirt bike—not the family car.

To leave the seat on or leave the seat off, that is the question. Seat foam will break down and deteriorate if it is exposed to a lot of water. That being said, you can leave it on if you’re careful with the water. Most professional mechanics take them off and most consumers leave them on.

If you so choose, remove your seat, then the air filter, and install an airbox cover. Reinstall your seat bolts so the shrouds don’t flop around. Seal any overflow hoses that could catch water with a spare bolt plugged into the end. Install a wash plug in your muffler or cover the end with duct tape so water can’t enter your engine or break down your packing. If you’re going to leave the seat on (and the air filter in), seal the airbox holes with duct tape. Note: Don’t forget to remove these things afterward!

Knock off any excess dirt with a rubber mallet before you start. Don’t use a mud scraper unless the dirt is wet because it will scratch the plastic. Clean your chain with a wire brush to remove most of the grease and dirt before you spray, and remove the handlebar pad.

Time to wash the bike like a pro! Lay the machine on its side with the handlebar on a bike stand. Laying the bike on its side allows you to get to those hard-to-clean areas underneath the cases, fenders, and tank. Supporting the bike by the handlebar is preferable to laying it on the triple clamp as the weight of the bike will put pressure on the thin fork tube.

Lightly spray the bike with water to loosen and soften the dirt. Let it sit for a minute or two then begin power-washing the bike clean. Use common sense, and don’t direct a lot of spray to bearings and seals. Electrical components on modern bikes are considerably better than Bultaco-era machines, but some restraint should be given here as well.

Next Steps

Lay the bike on the other side. If you have a skid plate, now is the time to remove it. Clean this side thoroughly, removing any dirt with the pressure washer. Scrub the underside of the frame while it’s on its side. If your frame is aluminum, scrub the frame and the under-side of the motor using an S.O.S. pad. You can also use a Scotch-Brite pad with some penetrating lubricant to remove any stubborn dirt and mineral deposits. Hose the bike off when you’re done.

Now put the bike upright on the stand and spray the bike with your soap solution or bike wash. Let the solution sit for a few minutes then scrub the bike with a soft brush. Hose the bike off from top to bottom. Scrub the swingarm, spokes, and frame if it is aluminum with the S.O.S. or Scotch-Brite pad. Hose off the remainder of the bike.

Dry the bike with a clean towel and use compressed air to dry hard-to-reach areas. Electrical fittings can be dried with compressed air, and dielectric grease can be applied to the connectors to keep out water in the future. Use the compressed air on the radiator fins, blowing only from the front of the bike back. Clean and dry the lower fork legs with a microfiber cloth and make sure there are no water spots. Mineral deposits have very sharp edges and can damage fork seals. Use compressed air and penetrating lubricant to remove water from the chain before you apply chain lube. Check that cables are free of water and lubricate if necessary.

Finally

Remove any black marks on the plastic with contact cleaner. Spray bike polish directly on a microfiber cloth when you detail the bike so you don’t overspray on the brake discs or make the seat slippery. When you’re done, it will look like a factory bike! Now go get it dirty again…

Key Areas To Clean Like A Professional

Forks adjusters: So you can get a screwdriver in there.

Footpegs, shift lever: Move the pegs and lever tip to clean all the dirt out of the springs.

Chain guide: Built-up dirt will wear out your chain.

Radiator fins: Your bike will run cooler if the fins aren’t clogged (just be careful, as strong power washers can actually bend the fins).

Under the tank: You will thank us the next time you remove your spark plug or check your valves.

Shock bumper: Built-up dirt will break down the bumper and scratch the shock shaft. 

How To Install Dirt Bike Graphics

All you need is just a little patience.

Patience.

Or a lot of it if you're trying to put graphics on the plastic of your dirt bike.

It can be maddening and bring out the rage in the most mild-mannered person. Some riders know their limits and don't even bother - they'd rather hire a professional to save their blood pressure and get it done right. But if you're adventurous, a full-on DIYer or simply find laying down graphics a battle you intend to win - it can be done and with practice you'll find it's not really that hard.

The biggest problem you'll find when putting graphics on your plastic is bubbling, misalignment, or they don't stick. Unfortunately all of the above at the same time is also in play. If it's your first time doing it don't expect smooth sailing. If you've worked on toy models in the past and figured out how to get those teeny tiny graphics on the jets, cars or whatever you built you're a step ahead.

The hardest areas tend to be the side number plate panels and exhaust side because of the curvature. Regardless, some riders have a gift and do it well, others fall into the "good enough" category and some just can't seem to figure it out no matter how hard they try. Whatever camp you fall in some tips on sticking graphics on to plastic should help ease the pain.

Dirt Bike Graphics Won't Stick

Old or new - clean the plastic really well. Brand new plastic tends to have a waxy residue that needs scrubbing off before applying graphics. Follow the instructions from the graphic manufacturer because some glue reacts differently to certain materials. Apply the graphics according to the directions.

Misaligned Dirt Bike Graphics

This is one of the biggest issues and the old saying "practice makes perfect" definitely rules here. Find a place that's comfortable with lots of room. Some riders lay graphics down on plastic already installed on the dirt bike. If you can do it this way, more power to you. However, this method is more constricting and other bike parts could get in the way. Standing over the top of a piece of plastic resting on a table top allowing you to move uninhibited is your best bet to reduce or eliminate misaligned graphics.

Bubbling

Bubbling happens. Smaller bubbles sometime flatten out over time, especially in the sun, but those larger bubbles look awful. Then you have to unpeel and try again. After applying the graphic to a piece of plastic work the bubbles or wrinkles from the inside out using your fingers. A hair dryer on low setting helps soften the material and makes it easier to massage any bubbles out.

EFI, Ignition Reprogramming & Throttle Body Service

C & C Racing Mods
466 Myers Road
Oswego, NY 13126
315-532-8273

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☐ Reprogram Fuel & Ignition Unit. $50.00

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